Kitsu jōzōsho (distillery) began in 1890 as a koji producer in the area that is now Minamiuonuma City. As the business was passed from one generation to the next, they gradually began producing miso and soy sauce as well. Their miso is distinctive for its rich, yet mellow, flavor and, even today, is still made almost entirely by hand.

Every year, the Kitsu distillery makes miso throughout the spring and fall. During miso production, the work starts early in the morning, at 3:00 am. The production of koji, which is used as an ingredient for miso, continues in parallel, so during this time of the year, there is hardly a moment to rest. To begin, soy beans are steamed, then, once cool, they are placed in the chopper to be mashed. So as not to waste a single bean, any that are left behind in the chopper are mashed individually by hand. Next, the mashed beans are combined with yeast, koji, and salt. A liquid called tamari released by the soy beans catalyzes the yeast’s cultivation and mixing in salt and koji prevents bacteria while allowing for uniform fermentation, resulting in a premium-quality miso. The koji is made using the Kitsu distillery’s own traditional method called “hegiokoshi.” Hegiokoshi involves heaping small batches of koji rice onto wooden boards and, one by one, repeatedly mixing by hand.

The mixed miso is transferred to massive wooden barrels where it is left to continue fermenting. A single barrel holds a staggering five tons. Additional barrels may be used depending on the type of miso for a final volume totaling several dozen tons. Great care is taken of these historic wooden barrels which have been in use for over 100 years. Once the miso is fully packed in, stones are placed on top to act as a lid. The staff use their years of experience to select stones of just the right size and weight. Finally, after a fermentation period of six months to a year, the miso is ready. This process, that uses no air conditioning, but instead relies on the region’s natural climate, produces delicious miso that has attracted a loyal following.

For a deep, yet subtle, flavor that has been maintained as a tradition for generations, try Kitsu Jouzousyo miso in Minamiuonuma.